FOURTH AND CHURCH

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New Wave South Africa

I am the first to admit that I’m a bit euro-centric when it comes to wine. Yes, I’ll venture across the pond, or to the other hemisphere with recommendation, but I love to consume wines from areas I’m familiar with - for a bit of connection. And South Africa does not fall into that bracket. I’d love to go, so if anyone fancies hosting the F&C squad on a trip, we have our passports at the  ready… 

A few weeks back, I went along to a very popular, pretty edgy tasting. In the basement of a record store in Soho, the New Wave South Africa tasting was all about highlighting cool and interesting wine producers, making wines with care, love and passion. And for sure, we got that. The room was saturated with quality wines and their friendly makers. Every table offered something distinct and intense. News must have travelled as there was a queue on the road for entry - a sign of what was to come . 

Sunshine is the name of the game, and retaining acidity to balance the wines is key. Off the top of my head, the grapes tasted included Chenin, Chardonnay, Grenache blanc, Verdelho, Sauvignon blanc, Viura, Semillon, Riesling, Muscat of Alexandria, Viognier, Clairette blanc, Syrah, Cinsault, Cabernet sauvignon, Pinot noir, Grenache, aaaaaaand Carignan. 

And the wines were much more diverse than that list. I drank more Chenin than ever before, all with distinct personalities and a hella sunshine. But I also had the nicest Riesling I’ve  had in months. FROM SOUTH AFRICA… Jessica Saurwein is one to watch.

CHI Riesling, from Jessica Saurwein

There was a big trend to a minimal approach in production. Many producers now favouring hand harvesting, using minimal sulphur and utilising natural yeast colonies present on the grapes, rather than adding any freeze-dried alternatives (used for efficiency, effectiveness and can even be used for direction of wine flavour). White wines were ripe and clean. Red wines were light and oak was  used with restraint. This new wave of winemakers are letting the grapes and terroir do the talking, which requires a great deal of skill.

We’ll be showcasing a few bottles on the wine list over the next few weeks. Currently on by the glass we have a white from long-term favourite producer, BLANKbottle. Moment of Silence is a decadent yet fresh Chenin blend, produced by the colourful Pieter Waisler. A wine full of apricot, creaminess, oiliness, nuttiness, lifted with green herbal notes. Made using  those native feasts, barrel fermentation, and lees aging. 

A selection of the BLANKbottle range

In the offerings of red wines we have a giant. Rall Red is a Syrah dominant blend made by Dominic Rall. With a touch of Grenache. An aromatic, fleshy and fun wine with great presence. Blackcurrant, cherry, black pepper, bergamot. Complex, delicious with a long finish, made by one of South Africa’s top producers.

Dominic Rall. Image courtesy of Maxine Lucas.

So come in, and try a glass - served alongside our usual euro-centric options.